CARNEVALE: curiosità e antiche tradizioni culinarie calabresi tra “pruppetti”, “fhrittuli” e “risu d’azata”

Carnevale 2024 prenderà il via ufficialmente l’8 febbraio, giovedì grasso e proseguirà poi alla domenica di Carnevale fino al Martedì grasso, ultimo atto del Carnevale prima che il Mercoledì delle Ceneri sancisca l’inizio della Quaresima.

Ma perchè si dice Giovedì grasso, Martedì grasso? Ricordiamo che il Carnevale è una festa mobile, le cui date vengono fissate a calendario in base a quando si celebra la Pasqua, che nel calendario liturgico cattolico/romano si colloca necessariamente tra l’Epifania (6 gennaio) e la Quaresima.

La parola Carnevale deriva dal latino carnem e levare, ossia “eliminare la carne”, esplicito riferimento agli obblighi religiosi imposti dalla Quaresima, il periodo di 40 giorni di digiuno e preghiera che conduce appunto alla Pasqua.

In Calabria il martedì grasso, il giorno prima del mercoledì delle Ceneri in cui inizia il periodo di astinenza della Quaresima, si chiama infatti anche azata, cioè alzare, togliere la carne, che si festeggiava con grandi mangiate di cibi fritti e a base di carne di maiale di vario genere, innaffiati da vino in quantità. Nel lametino la ricetta della tradizione è “u risu d’azata”, squisito riso al forno ripieno di salumi, carne e formaggi. La ricetta: https://www.reportageonline.it/carnevale-in-calabria-lantica-ricetta-di-u-risu-dazata-ovvero-riso-al-forno-con-salsiccia/

Le tradizioni del Carnevale in Calabria sono antichissime, discendono direttamente dalle feste Dionisiache magnogreche e dai Saturnali romani e nel tempo, anche con l’avvento del Cristianesimo, non hanno mai perso il significato della rinascita, preceduta necessariamente dal Caos, dalla destabilizzazione, sia pure temporanea, dell’ordine precostituito.

Un festa popolare di cui rimangono poche tracce soprattutto culinarie in alcuni piatti calabresi tipici del Carnevale, periodo che coincide anche con il rituale della macellazione del maiale. Quindi ai più fortunati toccano frittole e “cuadare”, ma su ogni tavola è un trionfo di polpette fritte e al sugo, frittate di pasta e lasagne sempre con salsiccia e carne di maiale, il famoso «risu d’azata», e naturalmente dolci fritti come chiacchiere, chinulilli e turdulilli.

Solo fino al martedì, dopo inizia la Quaresima, un digiuno che in Calabria non fa molto soffrire ma questa è un’altra storia.

Annamaria Persico (ARTICOLO PUBBLICATO IL 27 FEBBRAIO 2019 SU REPORTAGE)

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