Delizie del Sud. La giurgiulena (croccante di sesamo): storia e ricetta dell’antichissimo torrone arabo-calabro-siciliano

La giurgiulèna è un tipico dolce della più antica tradizione calabrese e siciliana fatto con semi di sesamo e zuccheri caramellizzati del miele.

La sua origine si perde nella notte dei tempi ma sicuramente è legata alle feste invernali, quelle dei Defunti e del Natale, ma anche alle feste patronali e ai culti cristiani di ogni paese del Sud dove tuttora viene preparata in casa o acquistata presso le bancarelle di dolciumi.

La deliziosa giurgiulena, o giuggiulena, gigiolena, giuggiulea o ciciulena che dir si voglia, in siciliano chiamata anche cubaita, è sicuramente un’eredità della pasticceria araba.

Il termine ǧulǧulān/ǧulǧalān in arabo significa infatti seme di coriandolo o di sesamo e la preparazione, che richiede un tempo molto lungo con riposo di 24 ore prima del consumo, è simile a molte altre dei paesi mediorientali a base di miele e frutta secca che già dall’undicesimo secolo si diffusero nei paesi del Mediterraneo e anche in Sicilia e in Calabria, dando vita a quello che è uno dei capostipiti della pasticceria italiana: il torrone.

INGREDIENTI
500 grammi di semi di sesamo
500 grammi di miele
5 cucchiai di zucchero
100 grammi di mandorle tostate
mezzo limone
confettini decorati

PREPARAZIONE
Fate sciogliere il miele e lo zucchero sulla fiamma bassa in un tegame di alluminio, facendo attenzione a non farlo bollire. Aggiungete i semi di sesamo e cuocete per 20 minuti, mescolando con un cucchiaio di legno. Tagliate grossolonamente le mandorle e aggiungetele al composto, cuocete altri 5 minuti e fate raffreddare un po’ il composto. Versate il composto su una spianatoia, stendetelo dell’altezza di meno di circa mezzo centimetro aiutandovi con mezzo limone e poi, prima che si raffreddi completamente, tagliatelo a rombi e volendo guarnite con confettini colorati.
Una variante alla ricetta classica è quella di aggiungere scorza di limone o arancia grattugiata al composto, un tocco aromatico e tipicamente meridionale al dolce.
Ora fate riposare la vostra giurgiulena almeno una notte poi sarà pronta per la gioia di grandi e piccoli!
Annamaria Persico

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