Falso extravergine: test svizzero boccia Carapelli, Bertolli, Berio e De Cecco

Ci risiamo: extravergine di nome ma non di fatto. Sei dei 12 prodotti analizzati dalla trasmisione Patti Chiari della tv svizzera Rsi «Lo scivolone degli extravergini» sono risultati alla prova di assaggio dei semplici vergini, ovvero la metà delle bottiglie promettevano una qualità maggiore di quella che in realtà mantenevano in bottiglia.

E a distanza di circa un anno dall’inchiesta del Test-Salvagente che squarciò il velo sul falso extravergine, il nuovo verdetto ha declassato a semplici vergini i lotti analizzati del Carapelli Classico, Bertolli Originale, Filippo Berio e De Cecco Classico perchè risultati difettati alla prova di assaggio del panel test. Gli altri due marchi bocciati, Olivana e M-Budget, non sono venduti in Italia.

E gli altri oli analizzati? Sono risultati conformi, ovvero extravergini e, tra quelli venduti anche in Italia, a salire sul podio sono stati il Gran Delizia Igp Toscano e il Monini Classico mentre a vincere il test è stato l’extravergine Sabo 100% Italiano, imbottigliato da un’azienda ticinese, prodotto con materia prima della pugliese Olearia Clemente.

Risultato conforme ai parametri organolettici dell’extravergine anche il PrimaDonna venduto da Lidl, il Bio Natur Plus (100% Dop umbro) e il Qualité&Prix della Coop svizzera.

Doppia prova di assaggio
Patti Chiari, trasmissione leader nella difesa dei consumatori in Svizzera, ha sottoposto i campioni a due analisi organolettiche e a una chimica. Gli oli sono stati fatti assaggiare a Zurigo dall’unico panel test svizzero riconosciuto dal Coi, il Comitato oleolicolo internazionale, e poi anche dal comitato di assaggio ufficiale dell’olio Dop Chianti in Toscana e i risultati sono risultati essere pressoché identici: bocciati in entrambi i casi Carapelli, De Cecco e Berio; promossi invece il Sabo, il Monini e il Gran Delizia.

Gli oli sono stati poi analizzati chimicamente dal laboratorio chimico ValorItalia (Sambuca Val di Pesa) sempre in Toscana e i risultati hanno fatto emergere due aspetti: tutti e 12 gli oli testati sono risultati in linea con i parametri di legge chimici previsti per l’extravergine, ma quelli bocciati dal panel test avevano una quantità di biofenoli (sostanze importanti che indicano la qualità del prodotto seppur non normate dalla legge) molto bassa rispetto a quelle degli oli che si sono aggiudicate i giudizi finali migliori.

Una prova ancora di più dell’assoluta validità del panel test più volte messa in discussione dagli stessi imbottigliatori.

Le aziende hanno replicato alla trasmissione Patti Chiari confermando la conformità dei loro extrevergine attraverso i responsi di altrettanti panel test. Tuttavia i risultati delle due commissioni di assaggio e il responso analitico del laboratorio chimico fanno concludere gli autori della trasmissione che ancora una volta per l’extravergine l’inganno al consumatore è sempre dietro l’angolo.
Enrico Cinotti
(testmagazine.it)

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