Fichi di Calabria, tante varietà per il frutto più antico del mondo

Dottati, Columbri, Mulingiana, Catalani, Russella… Sono tante le varietà dei fichi di Calabria, apprezzati e conosciuti fin dall’antichità, buonissimi, benefici ed energetici, da mangiare freschi appena raccolti o secchi nelle varie preparazioni tradizionali.

Il più famoso e prelibato è il fico Dottato di Cosenza, diffuso in tutto la provincia cosentina, che ha ottenuto il riconoscimento Dop. Il Dottato, della varietà Bifera Dottato, viene coltivato per l’essicazione e utilizzato per i più golosi dolci calabresi, dalle crucette ai fichi al cioccolato, dai palloni di fichi al gelato.

Ma in Calabria storicamente erano presenti tantissime varietà di fichi, alcune delle quali sono ancora presenti nei vari territori e reperibili anche nei mercati locali.

Ricordiamo ad esempio il fico Bianco, il Catalano (dal frutto piccolo nero violaceo), il Columbro o Columbrina (bianco e nero, rotondo dalla polpa dolcissima), il Natalise, e poi le varietà Nerella, Nivurella, Montanara, Paradiso, Russello (piccolo e tondo a maturazione tardiva), Schiavo o Mulingiana o Melagnano (piccolo, scuro e di forma allungata).

Comune in Calabria anche il caprifico o fico selvatico, Ficus caria caprificus, in dialetto fhicu servaggia, uno degli alberi più antichi del mondo.
Il fico selvatico è un buon impollinatore del fico domestico presente in tutto il territorio calabrese dal livello del mare fino agli 800 metri di quota.

Il frutto è edibile solo se ben maturo, l’infiorescenza (siconio) è piriforme, le gemme sono commestibili e un tempo venivano mangiate per la fame, nonostante il sapore poco gradevole.
Il lattice del caprifico anticamente veniva utilizzato, al posto del caglio, per far coagulare il latte. Anche la cenere della legna di questo albero antichissimo veniva usata per ricoprire i salami e farli stagionare per una lunga conservazione.

Annamaria Persico (articolo pubblicato su Reportage 19 agosto 2017)

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