Gusto Calabria: ‘a fhrittata ‘i Carnalivaru (la frittata di Carnevale)

Oggi parliamo della fhrittata ‘i Carnalivaru, un gustosissimo, ricco e per la verità piuttosto calorico piatto che in Calabria si usa per festeggiare degnamente il Carnevale, periodo in cui da tradizione si beve e si mangia in abbondanza soprattutto cibi a base di maiale, in un trionfo di ragù, salsicce e polpette di ogni tipo, paste ripiene e fritture a volontà.

Non a caso nella nostra regione il personaggio principale e simbolico di questa antichissima festa è il Re Carnalivaru (Carnevale), tuttora protagonista delle feste di piazza e della fharza, cioè la farsa, una messa in scena in versi in cui il grasso sovrano (uomo o fantoccio dal naso rosso che porta collane di salsiccia al collo) sta male, fa testamento e infine muore per aver mangiato e bevuto troppo, tra le lacrime della brutta moglie Quaresima e le risate degli astanti.

La ricetta che diamo oggi è tipica del cosentino, in particolare di Amantea, delizioso borgo che si affaccia sul mar Tirreno, ed è la più ricca e gustosa in assoluto in quanto si fa con la pasta mentre in altre zone è sempre buonissima, ma si fa anche senza questo ingrediente.

INGREDIENTI
500 grammi di pasta (tipo spaghetti, vermicelli o bucatini)
6 uova
100 grammi di formaggio grattugiato (pecorino o parmigiano)
salsiccia o soppressata calabrese a piacere
provola silana
2 uova sode
risimoglia calabrese o in mancanza olio evo

PREPARAZIONE
Fate dapprima cuocere la pasta, scolatela al dente e fatela refreddare. Nel frattempo in un’ampia ciotola sbattete le uova, il formaggio e un pizzichino di sale, prendete quindi la pasta con delicatezza e amalgamatela alle uova, aiutandovi con un cucchiaio di legno.

Fate sciogliere un po’ di risimoglia calabrese (chiamata anche frisuli, salimora o curcuci cioè la parte che si ricava alla fine della lavorazione del maiale, cremosa e saporitissima) sul fondo di una padella, in mancanza usate tranquillamente un velo di olio d’oliva. Versateci dentro metà della pasta precedentemente preparata, poi sopra fate uno strato di provola, uova sode, salame o salsiccia e coprite con un la pasta rimasta.

La frittata ora deve cuocere su fuoco dolcissimo per circa 15 minuti da un lato e 15 dall’altro, giratela un paio di volte aiutandovi con un piatto finchè le uova non siano ben cotte all’interno e abbia fatto una bella crosticina dorata.

Le varianti a questa ricetta come sempre sono tante, a seconda del territorio di provenienza. La salsiccia nel ripieno c’è sempre ma può essere accompagnata dalla ricotta, formaggio caprino fresco, in alcuni casi cipolla di Tropea fresca, mentre le uova sode scompaiono.
Annamaria Persico

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