I fraguni, le sfiziose focaccine calabresi di Pasqua

I fraguni calabresi sono deliziose focaccine salate ripiene, tipiche del periodo di Pasqua.

Pasta di pane, meglio se fatta con lievito madre, ricotta freschissima, formaggio primo sale e soppressata piccante sono gli ingredienti indispensabili per preparare gli sfiziosissimi fraguni.

Un tempo si preparavano, anche in versione dolce, il giovedi o il venerdì Santo per poi consumarli nei giorni successivi, appena finita la Quaresima, fino a Pasqua e Pasquetta, quando i fraguni sprigionano tutta la loro armonia di sapori.

Il termine fragune, fraguni al plurale, probabilmente deriva dal latino flado che significa sformato, focaccia di forma circolare (come il flan francese) oppure dal greco fagun, il frutto del sacro faggio, termine che ritroviamo anche nel Vangelo, nella parabola di Gesù al banchetto di nozze.

I fraguni, tra l’altro, sono del tutto simili ai dolci greci pasquali lichnarakia, termine che significa lampada o luce, che indica anch’esso l’origine sacra di questo cibo. Anche la forma dei nostri fraguni ricorda quella delle antiche lampade o lucerne ad olio di età greca e romana.

Un forte significato simbolico per le deliziose focaccine calabresi che ancora oggi, come vuole la tradizione, si preparano il giovedi o il venerdì santo perché siano pronti da consumare appena finita la Quaresima, per festeggiare il Cristo Risorto.

INGREDIENTI
500 gr di semola di grano duro
50 ml di olio evo
un cucchiaino di sale
10 gr di lievito di birra
acqua qb
300 gr di ricotta pecorina (o anche vaccina) freschissima
2 patate bollite
50 gr di pecorino grattugiato
100 gr di soppressata calabrese
100 di formaggio pecorino primo sale oppure di provola silana fresca
1 uovo
un pizzico di sale
prezzemolo (facoltativo)

PREPARAZIONE
Impastate gli ingredienti per la base fino ad ottenere un panetto morbido e liscio e fate lievitare un paio d’ore. Intanto preparate il ripieno: versate in una ciotola capiente la ricotta schiacciandola con la forchetta, unite le patate passate allo schiacciapatate, il pecorino grattugiato, il prezzemolo tritato, un uovo e infine la soppressata e il formaggio a pezzetti e mescolate bene il tutto.

Ora con la pasta fate delle palline della grandezza più o meno di un uovo e stendetela in sfoglie sottili rotonde, in calabresi chiamate siatti. Al centro di ognuna disponete il ripieno lasciando libero il bordo, che dovrete pizzicare con le dita in quattro o cinque punti diversi in modo che rimanga rialzato.

Rivestite una teglia di carta forno, disponetevi i fraguni poco distanti tra di loro e infornateli a 180 gradi per 20, 25 minuti finchè non diventano dorati.

I fraguni si possono preparare anche con pasta di pane, in questo caso fateli cuocere a temperatura inferiore. Esistono varianti di questa ricetta che non prevedono l’uso delle patate nel ripieno una versione vegetariana, senza soppressata, e anche la versione dolce, più moderna. Ma fateli come volete, sono sempre una delizia!
Annamaria Persico

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