La vera ricetta della pitta china calabrese, la squisita focaccia ripiena di Pasqua

La pitta china calabrese, (pitta chjina in dialetto cioè piena), chiamata anche guastella, pitta maniata o pitta rustica, è una preparazione tipica del periodo pasquale a base di pasta di pane e ripiena dei saporosi formaggi e salumi della terra bruzia.

Il termine pitta viene da pita, parola che in arabo, in greco e in ebraico indica un tipo di pane lievitato basso diffuso in tutto i paesi del Medio Oriente e del Mediterraneo mentre guastella deriva dal francese antico gastel o dal normanno guastel o wastel ed è un termine molto usato nella piana lametina per indicare la deliziosa focaccia.

La guastella o pitta calabrese storicamente doveva essere un tipo di pane di secondaria importanza, forse preparato con i resti della pasta del pane vero e proprio, poi rivisitato a seconda delle esigenze e delle occasioni.

Questa ricetta che andiamo a presentare da secoli era preparata dalle donne di casa rigorosamente il Sabato Santo per essere consumata soprattutto nelle gite in campagna del giorno della Galinea, ossia la Pasquetta, insieme a cuzzupe, uova sode e vino in quantità.

La celebrazione, che risale sicuramente alle feste di primavera pagane su cui poi si sono sovrapposte quelle cristiane, è chiamata anche Pascuni o Pascarella e in alcuni luoghi si festeggia anche il martedì dopo Pasqua.

Una bellissima usanza per celebrare la vita, rinsaldare affetti e amicizie e ricordare l’episodio dei Vangeli in cui un angelo annuncia la resurrezione di Gesù a Maria Maddalena e a Maria, madre di Giacomo e Salomé, che sono andate al sepolcro di Gesù e lo hanno trovato vuoto.

La guastella calabrese si prepara e si gusta con piacere in ogni periodo dell’anno ma tradizionalmente con altri tipi di ripieno, a seconda del periodo dell’anno. Possiamo affermare che ogni paese ha la sua fantastica pitta china o guastella.

INGREDIENTI
Per l’esterno:
300 grammi di pasta madre (o 2 cubetti di lievito di birra)
1 kg di farina,
3 uova intere
150 grammi di strutto
acqua q.b.
sale q.b.
Per il ripieno:
300 grammi di ricotta
100 grammi di soppressata o salsiccia col peperoncino rosso
3 uova sode
200 grammi di formaggio pecorino fresco
pezzetti di cotiche
La ricotta può essere sia pecorina che vaccina o mista, volendo si può aggiungere al ripieno anche della provola silana. La quantità degli ingredienti è indicativa, consigliamo (all’uso calabrese) di abbondare.

PREPARAZIONE
Impastate la farina con le uova, un po’ d’acqua, il lievito, lo strutto e infine il sale. Mettete a lievitare fino al raddoppio dell’impasto.
Dopo la lievitazione dividetelo in parti disuguali, uno più grande per il fondo e uno più piccolo per fare il coperchio.
Stendete in una teglia oleata l’impasto più grande, mescolate la ricotta con la soppressata, il pecorino fresco, le cotiche a pezzetti e le fettine di uova sode, farcite.
Coprite con l’impasto più piccolo. Spennellate con un po’ d’olio. Infornate a 200° per 25/30 minuti circa.
Annamaria Persico

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