Le ricette delle vere cuzzupe calabresi: all’antica lievitate e tradizionali di frolla

Le cuzzupe, chiamate anche taralli, cuculi, cuddure o cudduraci, sgute o riganelle a seconda dei territori, sono il vero simbolo di Pasqua in Calabria.
Le origini di questi dolci pasquali semplici ma deliziosi si perdono nella notte dei tempi: tarallo deriva dal greco daratos, che è un tipo di pane, il nome cuzzupa probabilmente deriva dall’arabo khubz o anche dal greco koutsupas, che significano ancora pane, cuddure dal greco kollura, corona. Il tutto ci riporta al pane di forma circolare, rituale e beneaugurante, al quale poi nel tempo si sono aggiunti nuovi ingredienti, come le uova.

Ogni famiglia ha la sua ricetta ma fondamentalmente la preparazione è di due tipi: la più antica è a base di pasta lievitata, con aggiunta di zucchero e uova, l’altra, più moderna risalente probabilmente all’Ottocento, è di una pasta frolla alta e morbida. Tutt’e due si prestano ad essere modellate in trecce, cuddure (corone), cestini e forme antropomorfe decorate con uova e (quelle di frolla) glassa e diavoletti colorati. Ecco le due ricette base.

CUZZUPE TRADIZIONALI DI FROLLA
INGREDIENTI
1 kg di farina, 5 uova, 250 grammi di zucchero, 2 cucchiai di strutto, 2 bustine di lievito in polvere, latte quanto basta, buccia di limone a piacere.

PREPARAZIONE
Su una spianatoia si impastano bene tutti gli ingredienti fino ad ottenere un impasto sodo ma morbido. Date alle cuzzupe la forma desiderata e si infornate a 180 gradi per mezz’ora circa, a seconda della grandezza. Volendo si può mettere sulle cuzzupe l’annaspro, la classica glassa bianca fatta con albume sbattuto con zucchero e succo di limone, e confettini colorati.

CUZZUPE ALL’ANTICA LIEVITATE
INGREDIENTI
1 kg di farina, 250 grammi di pasta madre (o in mancanza un cubetto di lievito di birra), 4 uova, 200 grammi di zucchero, un pizzico di sale, 2 pizzichi di anice nero silano, un po’ di acqua tiepida.

PREPARAZIONE
Su una spianatoia disponete la farina, la pasta madre e gli altri ingredienti e lavorare bene aggiungendo a poco a poco l’acqua tiepida, fino ad avere un impasto morbido, omogeneo ed elastico. Lasciare lievitare, ricoperto da un panno di lana, in un luogo tiepido, per un paio d’ore. Staccare dall’impasto dei pezzetti, e dar loro la forma desiderata.
Disponete le cuzzupe su un piano infarinato, coprirle nuovamente con un panno di lana e lasciar lievitare altre due ore, fino a che non raddoppiano di volume. Allineatele sulla piastra del forno unta, spennellate la superfice con uovo sbattuto e fate cuocere a 180 gradi per 20-30 minuti.
Annamaria Persico

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