Un’antica ricetta calabrese: baccalà frijutu ccu pipi e alivi niguri (baccalà fritto con peperoni e olive nere). La vera storia del baccalà “San Giuanni”

Il baccalà fritto con peperoni e olive nere, in dialetto baccalà frijutu ccu pipi e alivi niguri, è un piatto calabrese, tipico del lametino, molto antico.

Già dal 1500 il baccalà, il famoso merluzzo dei mari del Nord conservato sotto sale, arrivò probabilmente nel Sud Italia attraverso la Spagna, grazie in particolare alle flotte commerciali che facevano rotta nel porto di Napoli.

Da qui alla Calabria il passo è stato breve e il baccalà, cibo economico e gustoso, nel corso dei secoli e con l’aggiunta di ingredienti locali, è stato declinato in numerose varianti diventando così un piatto tipico calabrese.

Si mangiava tradizionalmente il venerdì e nei periodi di Quaresima ma anche alle Vigilie delle feste comandate,, sia presso le famiglie di ogni ceto sociale che nelle osterie, al posto del pesce fresco difficile da reperire in epoche in cui le coste erano quasi disabitate.

Una curiosità: la qualità più in uso, forse per la fissa che i calabresi hanno sempre avuto per i santi, era il baccalà cosiddetto San Giuanni, il cui nome vero però è Saint John, dalla zona di produzione nell’isola di Terranova in Canada. Certo è che San Giuanni o Saint John poco importa, il baccalà è buonissimo e sempre Santo è!

Ed ecco a voi la ricetta del baccalà frijutu ccu pipi e alivi niguri, tipica del territorio lametino, da preparare con cura e scegliendo ingredienti di prima qualità e, tranne il baccalà, rigorosamente made in Calabria.

INGREDIENTI
1 chilo di baccalà già spugnato, farina, peperoni verdi a cornetto, olive nere, pepe rosso macinato, sale, olio evo.

PREPARAZIONE
Tagliate a pezzi il baccalà, infarinatelo bene e fatelo friggere in una padella con poco olio evo. Quando è leggermente dorato, aggiungete i peperoni puliti da semi e piccioli (se sono piccoli interi altrimenti tagliati a listerelle), dopo qualche minuto le olive nere e completate la cottura.

Fate sgocciolare il tutto su carta assorbente e infine chiudete in bellezza con una bella spolverata di pipi ammaccatu, e cioè peperoncino secco macinato.

La variante invernale di questa ricetta, straordinariamente buona e forse ancor più antica, è quella di utilizzare peperoni secchi (cruschi) oppure d’u salaturu, cioè conservati sottosale. Un vero cibo della tradizione, semplice e buonissimo!
Annamaria Persico

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